Thanks. Mineral spirits. Clearly I have done something wrong but I don’t know what it is. This is kinda a weird question…I want to do the complete opposite of what you are doing here. Fortunately, this process works with just about any film finish. Also lesson learned. Yes. Screening disks in 60-, 80- and 120-grit roughness, Gloss applicator (looks like a push broom). I use two formulations: IP 2000 and SF 4000. No matter how good a finish looks, it will always have surface imperfections. If that doesnt work, you can always use a semi-gloss topcoat to change the sheen. Looking good, then I used the IP2000 with a surbuf pad…. I have a Festool ETS/3 150 and a Rotex RO150 FEQ (an older model, about 8 years old). So at this point I am unable to give sound advice because I don’t really have a good idea of what’s currently on the surface. Yes, this terminology is very hard to discuss with a straight face. Hey Leo. One of the most relied upon techniques to remove paint from wood involves paint stripper and some careful scraping. I had hoped to use a layer of west systems epoxy as a top coat on a large (40″x99″x8/4) live edge slab. Use damp rags to wipe away the excess water/finish slurry and it just might fix the problem. The table is so big that my eye is drawn to imperfections in various lights… I’m interested in rubbing out the finish. We decided to use paint stripper on an old painted milk door to bring it back to its original state. (less than the grain raising , but not as smooth as a 220 grit sanding. Just use the correct techniques and take care in testing on a discrete area first. It’s a Stickley so I want to ask your advice before moving forward. Or only after all coats of lacquer have been applied? It looks like the ets150/3. The surbuf packaging says it’s capable of removing swirl marks. I use 320 grit wet/dry paper and a bit of soapy water as a lubricant. Rubbing out is a three-step process (not including pore-filling) that does require some specialized tools and materials. More importantly, and what surprised me about the process, is that it FEELS glass smooth, which it didn’t before with the just the arm-r-seal (little teeny nips and sags). It is self cross-linking, dries hard and can be buffed to a high gloss. Otherwise you run the risk of sanding through. Strip the Paint. Lastly is figured cherry considered a porous wood? Let’s face it, very few of us have spray booths and our shops are far from ideal finishing environments. When I lifted off the bookcase and tried to remove the moving blanket the fabric hairs from the moving blanket as well as a wiggly pattern was embedded in the highly polished finish of the table top. Paint a thick layer of alcohol or alcohol/thinner mixture onto the wood. I am trying to finish a piece of “raw” wood, with some bark, etc on parts. You’ll want to treat the whole surface the same way since you’re effectively scratching the finish. Pax, If so, you can use any oil-based topcoat on top of it, once it’s completely cured. Be aware that this will leave visible grooves in the cabinets, so you'll likely need to refinish the cabinets once you have completed the project. Kevin McDermott is a professional newspaper journalist and landlord. Hi, I’m trying to get a high gloss finish out of nitro i sprayed on a used piano I got. McDermott writes about home improvement for various websites. I am a Masters student of the University of Education, Kumasi-Ghana West Africa. The end result looks incredibly professional. It comes out great. The harder the finish, the better it responds to rubbing out. So you might try a spot treatment and then buff that area separately from the rest of the surface, in hopes of getting it to look a little better and less noticeable than it is now. I use a poly finish and after the first 3 – 4 coats, I start to sand between coats. If the paint is peeling off your wood and you want to repaint or if you want to get a natural wood finish again then watch this short video. That process is called rubbing out. Should I lightly sand the wood with a high grit (i.e. I am trying to do a high gloss poly finish on doors and I’m using Festool Granit paper. This was a great video and very informative. Sand the gloss by hand using 240-grit sandpaper. My budget doesn’t stretch to a Rotex or polisher and usually I want a satin finish. If you are going to paint, remove the gloss, seal it with a product like Kilz, so the old finish doesn't bleed through the new paint. way to shinny. Once again, soapy water serves as a lubricant. Polish goes EVERYWHERE. Depends on the depth of the scratches. I was thinking about buying a mirror glaze compound like meguiars m7 but i dont know if thats the answer. Since Arm R Seal is already thinned for wiping, I don’t know that I’d recommend it for a surface that will be rubbed out. You can reduce the gloss of an existing finish by gently wet sanding with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper. The top looks ok now but with the finish not sinking in I don’t think it will provide any real protection. I used Red Label AbrasIves sanding discs (only thing I could find on Amazon). HELP! I can’t find anyone discussing it online, which makes me worry it’s a bad idea. Christian. It’s to be expected that our finish will nearly always have dust and other pieces of debris residing within it. Is there any way to get a shiny or glossy finish without use of a shellac type of coating? Loving my work so far, however! I followed all of your directions in your video concerning using dyes. What are the chances of joining the wood whisperer in some WoW related activity? Choose a fine-grit sandpaper and scrub the cabinet doors thoroughly. That is a great video with tons of helpful information. It appears this table is commermcily made because the top is constructed a lot of small stips, and the grain orientation varies a lot throughout. An alternative solution would be adding a coat of compatible satin or matte poly or varnish on top … The higher the grit, the glossier the finish will be. Wow those are amazing results! Do you sand between every coat of the lacquer after the first 3 coats. Safety glasses for now on. I felt I needed to sand because the surface was rough in some areas after the first coat. Step away! If the gloss on your wood floor is so shiny that it looks fake—and maybe even is too slippery to be safe—refinish it with a low-gloss polyurethane, which provides the same protection but is less reflective. Should I do a few more coats of varnish before I start to sand or was I just using to low of grit to begin with? As Jay said, I’m using the Festool ETS 150/5 sander. Any advice on how to remove it safely from the table? I’d like it to still have a satin look when I’m done, and my thought is that buffing the surface would probably not change this aspect? I am glad to see others doing this too. Scrub the stripping compound into the finish with steel wool. 1. But I might use various higher grits depending on the situation. I use 320 grit wet/dry paper and a bit of soapy water as a lubricant. So brushed-on coats of a standard varnish would do the trick nicely. Also, you can use a clear wood filler as a generic option that should work in all woods. What is your advice, given what I have already done, to achieve a decent high-gloss finish? I am offering MPHIL. I’d go with about 5 coats. Makes me want to rub one out myself! Here's how you can make your gloss interior look showroom-clean. Hi Marc Brian Bennett. Once I don’t see the shiny spots after sanding, I put one more coat of finish on and then go to work with 600, 1000, and 2000 grit wet sand paper. However, the shellac on the test board had cured for a couple of weeks at the time, and I realized when attempting to apply the same technique to a shelf that had only just been shellacked, the results were as I’d not applied wax and steel wool at all. Yes, CA has been getting tough on finishes for years now. And oil-based stain, in the furniture world, generally doesn’t have a gloss quality to it as there is not varnish in the mix. What over the counter polish should I use? Pour more gloss and continue spreading it row by row until you've done the whole floor. Also, the platin abrasive goes up to 4000, but you only recommend 2000 – why? The Wood Whisperer, The Wood Whisperer Guild, TWW, and TWW Guild are trademarks of The Wood Whisperer Inc. All rights reserved. After allowing the dye to completely dry for 24 hours, the wood has a slight fussy feel to the touch. Re-load the screener with 80-grit paper and repeat the process. How to Remove Paint from Wood Floors with a Heat Gun. Whether you’re dealing with a gloss or emulsion paint stain on clothes, the most important thing to check is whether the paint is oil- or water-based. But it will likely be short-lived and will need to be renewed periodically.If you truly want a shiny finish, you’ll need a film of some sort. If scraping, ragging, and heating don’t do diddly, you’ll need to resort to a solvent to break down the paint. It was, in fact on top of Arm R Seal gloss – about 5 coats worth and I had let it cure for about 3 weeks. Just can’t figure how to finish the darn thing!). “Soak a rag—not a towel, but a microfiber rag or similar—with the solvent and rub carefully so you don’t harm the wood finish by mistake,” says MacMillan. Prior to dying the wood, I raised the grain with water and then sanded off the fuzzy grain with 400 grit. ETS150’s are 6″ only. Hi Marc. I would guess that if you wait longer, you should be able to repeat the wax and steel wool process with success. Have you tried this? (Clearly I’m a novice. You are a very good presenter. I’m looking to achieve a high-gloss finish. I love the matte look of the raw wood but know that I need to seal them. As this rifle will be sitting in my safe for 95% of its lifetime, do I have to seal it with a protective coat or can I just polish the last layer of Tung oil. The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard. I have a beautiful dining room table that I have had in a non climate controlled warehouse. No reason you can’t follow the process shown in this video as long as you never sand down into your paint layer. Another tip for removing glue from wood is by using sandpaper. Plus, you don't have to … When fully dry, remove the crust together with the paint residues with a stiff brush or stripping knife. I always give honest opinions, findings, and experiences on products. Then I use my random orbital sander for the automotive rubbing compound. Vacuum up the dust. I just had some kitchen cabinet doors refinished in oil-based lacquer, eggshell or satin finish. I would say you need to start applying lacquer and start building your coats. I do those by hand though. Yes I did. I have a small project where I used gloss polyurethane. Make the puddle about the size of your gloss applicator. If I have to seal it, what sealer (polyurethan, lacquer, varnish) will adhere to the Tung Oil? You might want to experiment with various brands but the one I decided on was Menzerna, primarily based on Jeff Jewitt’s endorsement of the product. You can probably do this on smaller pieces too but it does become a little trickier using a powered solution like this. You either need to use sandpaper to remove the "shine" and get it back to undercoat, then one coat of undercoat and one coat of gloss. not sure if this makes any sense….but would this technique work with painted wood surfaces? There are lots of rubbing compounds on the market. 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